We joked around a while back about doing the maths of when we should be having kids. It started with my sister Connie mentioned that she did the maths and she won’t be 31 till she has kids based on her partner’s career timing. I mentioned it to Angie and she’s like why don’t we do the maths too!?
It was actually quite interesting cause until we started looking into it, we hadn’t realised how hard it was to have kids. It’s not like what they tell you in high school where it’s like have sex… Then boom! You’re preggas… Life is over. People have a been “trying” for kids.. Many take years of trying… That just doesn’t seem fun.
So we did the maths based on our career status, engagement, saving money for house and wedding, wedding, enjoying our home and married life and trying. I think after factoring in we realised I’m going to be like minimum 37 before we have kids… That means I’ll be a dinosaur dad! I trimmed and chopped bits and pieces here and there due to our desire to be young parents and we came up with ~33 for me. That’s still pretty old I think but hey means I still got like 4 years of climbing to reach my goal of V10.
It was something Yi and I talked about when we started bouldering 10 years ago. “when would you be content with your bouldering and call it a day?”, “V10” was the response we both agreed to. I thought what better time for it than now? Been bouldering for 10 years, turning 30 in January and hit up a V10! What an awesome birthday present to myself. It’s pretty much the bouldering version of remembrance day!
I was having a phone conversation with Angie last night and she mentioned she wanted to start trying in the next 2 years….
2 years!? The doesn’t leave me alot of time before my climbing life is over. I have so many things on my tick list that I better get on to! In the flip side this is such good motivation to start training and train hard!
I guess small goals help but I’ve got a V10 in mind already – A Busy Road To Solitude at Wyadup. That’s totally my style apart from the huge throw at the start!
So the first step is to start “training”. What’s training? To me it’s to do climbing specific exercises in a structured way instead of my normal casual boulder at the gym. This way it’ll give me goals to work towards each week.
I’ve kicked off week one with Strength training with focus on crimping and static strength. I have really weak fingers and they tend to get injured easily so it’ll be good to put some focus on them. I also incorporated a way to train my core without doing situps which I’m really enjoying!
After 2 weeks of training, I hit project day at the gym and I remember how light I felt when I was warming up. It didn’t last very long but nevertheless it was a surprise. I then hit my projects and managed to send two of them! I definitely felt the core was stronger and tighter!
I’m looking forward to the warmer weather so I can head down south and get on some boulders.
I found a free weekend and headed down south for the weekend by myself. I spent the first day on Busy Road at Wyadup and struggled to sort out the beta. It took all session and alot of shoulder pain from the big spans. I kept pushing through and it definitely aggravated it. I still struggled to do the first move and it felt out of reach. Coming down from disappointment, I headed to Copper Rocks the next morning for a quick go at The Cougar and somehow made awesome progress and sussed out the beta for the first big move up to the jug! Psych was high and I ended up staying for a good 4 hrs just working the second section. I managed to find a way to do the end using a mantle and I was psyched! It’s on!
I woke up the next day and my shoulder was in serious pain. I went to see a physio and it was an unhappy rotator cuff so rehab it was. I’ve never had an injury where it was so chronic it just kept hurting and didn’t show signs of improvement. I had 2 physio sessions a week consisting of releasing massages and exercises. I took a good 4 weeks of exercises before I started feeling signs of improvement.
A few weekends later I went back for another solo day trip to Copper Rocks and was totally disappointed. I realised that I couldn’t link the two sections. I couldn’t link the heel hook right hand bumps into the mantle. I started sussing out alternative beta but that slowly got me more and more disappointed with the realisation that actually this might be way beyond me. By the end of the day with alot of rock caressing, I found that the transition was all to do with a subtle hand and body position. It wasn’t solely about power but was quite precise and delicate. I was happy once more =)
The shoulder was improving with rehab but on a Friday, 2 days before another day trip to the project, I was bouldering at the gym and tried a move and felt sharp pain in the shoulder again… It wasn’t happy =( definitely a few steps back.
I’m sure we’ve all been there before, trying to push through the pain and injuries in hopes of sending the project. I think the biggest issue is ourselves, it’s our drive and determination as climbers to keep pushing through all means to achieve success.
I still decided to go for the day trip with Edwin and the shoulder started out OK but progressively got worse try after try. I think the biggest thing for me that day was my mindset. I was like, all good, just going to see how I go and come back before Xmas to give it another burn. That helped me relax and be fluid with my body. I have never felt so strong on the moves before and made it from the start all the way to pressing up on the mantle! I was in total disbelief and was so stoked! I definitely didn’t expect that I’d be able to get so far!
I’m going away offshore for 2 weeks so hopefully it’ll let my shoulder have a rest =)
Whilst I was offshore, I did mostly gentle shoulder exercises on the rings as well as theraband exercises! To the point I did so many that my shoulder wasn’t happy =P the shoulder felt pretty awesome after the 2 weeks. I came back and hit the gym, tried this problem that was spanny during my warm up.. Bit mistake.. Game over the pain came straight away =(
I think that was when the realisation came that things could be bad for my shoulder if I didn’t look after it and this kept happening. I think that was when I finally accepted that I’m going to avoid reachy and spanny moves for a good 6 months. Mentally I was in a much happier state and physically I felt good!
I drove down to Copper Rocks one last time before 2018 came for annual Pre-Christmas boulder. I didn’t really have much expectations but thought I’d give The Cougar a run. First shot was a mess.. Pretty fail! I thought I’d give it a good 10min rest then emotionlessly gave it another shot. Everything went perfect, starting from the little hip flick when swinging to the jug to the transition into the mantle. The heel hooks landed right and the hand bumps spot on. I got the mantle transition and it was the moment of truth as I pushed up to the pocket, I haven’t managed to link it this far before however unknowingly I was up, hips locked in and reaching for the pocket. My two fingers in there were pulling hard as I felt the pump in my forearms. I tried to maintain composure as I executed the sequence that I had rehearsed before. As I was bringing up my right foot, my left hand slipped, I started barndooring and I thought it was all over but somehow I was able to hang on and recover. I tried again and brought my right foot up to the hold, pushed on my right leg and lifted my body up to hit the final hold. Sorted out my feet, rested and shook out before pulling over the top. I was in disbelief and felt super happy! I finally did it! Something I never expected to do, what started as a bit of a joke with my best friend came to life! Since that day I’ve felt a burden off my shoulders, I feel a lot more relaxed in general and just happy =) I’m not feeling the stress and anxiety that I’m used to which is awesome. I think right now I’m just happy to let my body recover and start fresh again!
Merry Christmas folks!