“I’d rather root beer over a beer anyday!” – Yosemite

image Hello folks! Here is photo of a tent… No that’s not rain… That’s tree sap and it’s sticky as hell! If you stay in Yosemite… You’ll get sapped! So anyways! Today is a monumentous day. Our mission was to tick off one of the classics… Bishop’s Terrace graded 5.8 at Church Bowl Crag. After breakfast.. Rowie, Klaus and I headed off and warmed up on Uncle Fanny.. A 5.7 chimney image I’ve never worked so hard for a chimney before! It was a battle for sure… Especially with all the massive cams jingling around making my arse bigger than it already is… Good fun though! Learnt the heel toe technique… The last time I heard that term it was on Initial D… About drifting cars… The last climb we did was an even better climb called Church Bowl Layback… Or something like that which was I think a 5.7…pure gold laybacking on finger cracks! Keep in mind the grades here are far from accurate… In the guide book it says in the description for Uncle Fanny 5.7…if you’re ready for the next challenge, try something something chimney that’s graded 5.6….wtf? image Here’s a photo of Taro hanging out and eating his banana waiting for his turn =) We lined up for Bishop’s Terrace and all of a sudden the weather was overcast and BAM it was time! image The guide book says 1 set of nuts, 1 set of cams between 0.3 – 1 and then doubles for 1-3 and single for 4….no worries… I doubled when they said single and tripled when they said double just to be on the safe side… I left my number 5 cause I thought it’ll be ridiculous… Rookie mistake… In the photo above Rowie taught my how to rack up doubles and triples and save space on your harness! Such a crucial life skill! Levelled up for sure! It was a 60m climb and was definitely the most varied climb I’ve yet to do. Had finger cracks… Laybacks.. Fist jams… Off widths and more hand jams… It was epic and I was so shagged…. Towards the end I was running out of gear…. I know… Running out of gear… Despite doubles and triples… I got to the massive fist section and had nothing left… My last placement was a number 1 into a number 2 crack… The only thing saving my arse was the points of the cam lobes was just touching the rock.. Mega undercammed.. More like not even cammed! I thought GG in shagged… Pumped… And BAM thunder just cracked and the first rain drops started falling into my face… I said to myself… It’s time the run it out and finish this! If I had known that I only had a #3 can left and nuts… I would’ve shit myself and cried…. But ignorance is bliss… I kept climbing into the fist jam section… I started getting nervous and was like.. It’s time to plug in gear… Look up and right before my eyes was a #4 cam that was on the wall looking mega over cammed…. I wiggled it free and used it! Thank god! Went up further and BAM.. A #5 cam was again over cammed so I pulled it out and used it… I got to the top… With 5m to go… Rain got heavier… I slammed my last cam in totally over cammed it but who cares…. Went for the top… Bouldering style… There was two parallel cracks.. I just compressed them and bumped one hand up after another… Got pumped after like 3 moves… Had to down climb… Take a chill pill and remind myself that i’m in Yosemite and climbing cracks…. Do back up I went.. This time jamming hands and feet… Got to the anchors and met the other couple who went up before me… Thank god they got they two massive cams stuck or else it would’ve been all over for me. Here’s a shot me me up the top of the climb! Such an amazing view! image I finally lowered down.. Packed up.. Had dinner and headed to curry village for a shower… Lucky no one was there so it didn’t cost me anything! It was amazing! Feel like a new man! image


About peetiez

I'm 24 and from Melbourne. =D
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