“I think you need to jerk off or something” – Indian Creek

After the big day yesterday.. I woke up feeling pretty good =) I met the girls at their site and met the new member of our team, Michael.. He’s on a mega climbing trip after graduating from Uni and living it up!

image

Today’s destination was Supercrack Wall… We rocked up to the car park and I saw a familiar face.. Steph Davies! She was taking a climbing workshop! Super rad! We jumped on our first climb “The Incredible Hand Crack” which was a 4 star 5.10. There were 4 of us so we flipped a coin to determine who would go first… I won so I went first.

image

It was awesome! The start was like #1 cams so I couldn’t get anything in there and actually fell off before I managed to place any gear… Lucky the landing was flat and they spotted me…. I tried again this time laybacking and I got over it. Once you hit the ledge, it becomes #2 perfect hand jams all the way! I had 8 #2 cams on my harness =)

You go up jamming then you hit a rest ledge before you go over the bulgy overhang and then swim to glory. The next climb was a shorter warm up called Twin Cracks 5.9..nice a short.

We tried another 5.9 hands after lunch and then went for the ultimate prize again… “The Wave” 5.10…it’s like this 0.75 – 1 crack so alot of it is laybacking which is super pumpy! Em went first and she killed it! Got it clean! I went 2nd and took a fall at the final layback section… Took me another 2 more goes before I could finish the climb cause I was just so pumped! Couldn’t even close my left first anymore! Epic battle! Seems like we’re having a tradition of finishing up on long and tough 30m climbs at the end of the day… Epic fun! The 4 of us had dinner and chilled out together.. Definitely a rest day tomorrow!

image

We had a late start and didn’t leave camp till 9am. We drove to Moab to refill our water containers and have showers! Lucie bought new climbing shoes and ended up getting the TC Pros! After a shower and a swim at the local pool.. We headed to this local burger joint called Milt’s!

image

It was awesome! Had burgers and shakes! It was definitely nice just to relax and surf the net and let the body recover. We did a quick grocery shop before we headed back to camp to catch up with Michael and his friend Alex who came for the weekend. Before you know it.. Other people from the camp ground joined us and it was party time! We had a fire going and it was just amazing… It’s been so long since I’ve had a camp fire.. Definitely missed it.. Think the last time was when we went down south with the Wong bros and Omar and we spent ages trying to get the fire alight… Blowing like crazy and getting smoke in our eyes.

Next day the girls, Michael and his friend Alex and myself went to Optimator wall. We had to do some Creek crossing with the corolla which was interesting and done minor 4wding. We warmed up on this awesome Chimney called Charlie’s Pillar which works it’s way out of the Chimney!

image

Michael spotted this climb and was super psyched! It was Annunaki 5.12 which is like a 25.. It looked amazing!

image

It was a slightly overhung lightning bolt crack.. First 6 or so meters were perfect #2 hands before there were a few layback moves before a jug. Then it gets all sporty with a few more layback /cross moves before some final finger jams… It was amazing… It was like a climb crossed with a sport climb… Technical in places and strong in others.. Super fun! I lead it on trad and ended up taking a massive fall 3/4 of the way up… When I pulled back up.. The cam wasn’t even sitting right.. It was fully open and just the tips of the lobes holding on… You could also see how its moved as the tips scraped the soft sandstone… =S I loved the climb so much that I tried to lead or a second time!  Such a sick line! Must do if you are at the crag!

Advertisements

About peetiez

I'm 24 and from Melbourne. =D
This entry was posted in Climbing, USA and tagged , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s