We had an awesome adventure day out today! The goal was to climb Stolen Chimney on Ancient Art! You may have seen it before on the net or even TV commercials.. The Citibank one with Alex Honnold and Katie Brown climbing.
It’s graded at 5.8 A0 or 5.10ish… A0 is the aid difficulty with 0 being the easiest and each both within reach of one another. We woke up nice and early for an prompt start… The weather was primo as it was overcast making it perfect weather for a slow day waiting around and sharing the climb with others …the Fisher Towers are North East of Moab so we made the hour and a half drive and arrived at the crag at around 8:30am. It was such a beautiful area with a campsite near the parking lot which overlooks the Fisher Towers!
Imagine those sunrise and sunsets! A short 15min walk got us to the base is Ancient Art. There were already 4 parties in front of us… One at each pitch so we just chilled out watching how the others made their way up.
Pitch 1 was basically a scramble before climbing a bolt ladder with stemming feet .. It was basically clip a draw.. Bicep curl the draw, stem with feet and stand up .. Clip the next bolt.. Pull and stand… Repeat x4.
This takes you to the start of pitch 2, the Chimney pitch… This was more stemming with a hand jam here and there.
The 3rd pitch was a short bolt ladder that took you to the top of the climb where you first get a glimpse of the corkscrew!
When I first saw the corkscrew I was so in awe! It was sick! It’s amazing from a distance but until you arrive.. It’s beauty hits you again.
Finally… Pitch 4! The corkscrew tower! one by one.. We took turns going to the summit!
You first walk across a narrow sidewalk which gives you max exposure with drop off on either side… This takes you to the base of the corkscrew..
A massive “diving board” juts out and you can either go under and around or you can belly flop and mount the thing! I went and mounted the thing! Then there’s a little crux before the summit…
Knowing me.. I tried to free climb it without pulling on draws… First time I went up.. I slipped and thank god I fell back on the ledge below me or else it would’ve been a huge fall down =S I tried again and got it! Phewf! To the summit I went! Standing on top was amazing! Such an amazing view and experience! I was surprised that I wasnt scared of the exposure and height cause usually I’m a chicken shit! I really enjoyed the climb.. Each pitch was varied and super different. So fun!
By the time we made it back to the car it was 4pm ish… On the way back to Moab we passed this area called Big Bend and it was full of boulders! We got out just to have a look and I got super excited when there were a few dudes trying this rad overhang V4 called Circus Tricks ! I ran to the car and we got my pad and shoes and joined the guys to give it a go!
We had so much fun pulling on holds again! Definitely missed it =) we gave it a few goes and called it a day heading to the Moab Brewery for dinner! Me and Lucie shared a full rack of ribs with Jack Daniel BBQ sauce!! So amazing… The meat just fell off the bone! Mmm