As I arrived at the Hidden Valley Camp ground last night… There were no more camping spots… I asked a random if I could share his spot and he hesitantly said yes. We had a bit of an intro and chat. He too was a climber but by himself. He slept in his car which was a Honda Element… The ultimate dirtbag car. The front seats all the way to the bag could fold completely flat and if not used, could be removed to place shelfing. It had suicide doors and air vents where you needed them… It was made for it!
The next morning I convinced him to go climb with me instead of going Toprope soloing. We went to check out Hemingway and did 2 climbs before we went to lunch… We had heaps of fun and both definitely enjoyed the company. The style here in Joshua Tree is more like Yosemite. Flared cracks, some face holds and varied climbing. I still love Indian Creek =) anyways it was still fun to climb. We chilled out over lunch and had a chat. We then hit the boulders after lunch and my skin on my fingers started ripping after trying a V2 a few times… Shows how much I’ve used my tips in Indian Creek huh?! He couldn’t stay and had to leave this arvo at 3pm.. He was heading to Las Vegas to meet his ex girlfriend and convinced me to check it out. I’m kinda sick of sightseeing and national parks and being alone… So I thought #yolo let’s drive 3 hrs to Vegas! .. Stay at a nice hotel… Walk down the strip and see a sweet show at night =)
I guess I’ll spend tomorrow here bouldering and then head off the next day!
Spontaneous but yolo. After he left, I went for a drive to town for wifi to google Vegas accommodation and things to do! I walked past the noticeboard at the Hidden Valley Camp ground and there was a guy looking for a partner so I went to visit him but he wasn’t around so I left him a note and went to bed. The next morning he comes and drops by whilst I’m having breakfast and went decided to do a multipitch!
Here’s a shot of the route on the guide. It was a 4 star 5.6. 4 pitches – #1 slab to crack system, #2 & #3 follow the crack / chimney, #4 jugfest to the anchors.
Here’s a shot from below… Blank was what I thought… So my partner was a bit nervous about slabs and I can’t say I’m the biggest fan but somehow the challenge excited me =P the whole pitch had 1 bolt… There was a lower crack system where you can slam in protection however the sketchy slab section is a bit run out… Nothing compared to Snake Dike though… So I started it… Did some slabby balancey moved to the bolt and then there was some more balancey moved which require alot of trust on friction and tiny edges… Scary but somehow I was super psyched. I made it up to the anchors and my partner Scott left pitch 2 & 3 which was a chimney before I finished it off with a long scramble to the top. Was pretty awesome climb. The slab was definitely my favourite! Scott had some errands to run in town that arvo so I was happy just relaxing at the campsite listening to music and chilling.
I spent the rest of the arvo just wondering around with my pad checking out some boulders. I went to the 4 star Caveman V6 which was located behind someone’s site!
Some of the moves were quite big… Iron cross move and really shouldery and some were high. The landing wasn’t perfect so I basically did each move and moved the pad before doing the next move… Just don’t want to risk injury with no spotters or extra pads. The problem is super cool! Mostly large holds but the feet on the starting half of the boulder are terrible.
I then went for a wonder and found this other V4.
Basically a traverse to a strong right shoulder move and match before going for the top out jug. Super tensiony and fun! It started getting dark and called it a day… I went and joined Scott for dinner and just spent the night chatting about his life, his guiding business in Colorado which has been really successful with getting sponsorship from big companies… and life in general =)
So cool! He even gets sent gear from companies to review!! Jealous!