“I broke a hold the size of a Labrador” – West Cape Howe

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Happy Valentines Day folks! What better way to celebrate than to make it a long weekend, leave our partners back home and go away with the boys down to West Cape Howe =)

Leaving after work Thursday, we jammed our gear into the back of Remi’s car and off we went. Remi driving, Brian stretching his legs, Lance forced to sit sideways behind Brian’s pulled back seat, myself and Lance’s guitar sandwiched in between. Remi cruised through the 4wd track and we had the whole campsite all to ourselves =)

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Next morning was Brian’s best day of fishing all weekend pulling in a huge 6 fishies!

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So off we went to the Raft area.

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Remi Vignals rapping down to the Raft Area

 

The plan was to warm up on Tan Tay Lan and Pulsar before giving Jonas Hollingworth’s new line “Epitaph” 22 a go.

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Brian Tan on Tan Tay Lan

 

Epitaph - West Cape Howe

Epitaph – West Cape Howe

The line is on the left of the classic Tombstone. Start lower and follow the line straight up to the base of Tombstone before traversing across the slab to the base of the finger crack to set up shop. In the photo above, there’s two lines, Epitaph going straight up the finger crack and Thank God I’m an Athiest which goes left and up.

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Brian Tan taping up in preparation for our assault on Epitaph

The rock was shiny like my forehead after a hard sesh … it had this glistening sheen to it. So off Brian and I went, Brian led the first pitch up to the base of the crack before we tag teamed. … me being the guinea pig this trip, was sent up first. There’s some bomber placements at the start of the pitch before things get hard really quickly due to the poor feet, shit your pants exposure and gear smaller than the size of your USB port on your computer. I placed a green C3 … climbed up a bit …. slipped and took a fall … and basically landed back next to Brian =P  boy was I happy to be alive. I went back up …. bumped my C3 further and took another fall … still didn’t die. I managed to wrestle my way to the top, set an anchor and rapped back down to belay Brian for the onsight. “Exciting” was the word Brian used to describe the route =P

we called it a day and spent the rest of the afternoon hanging out at the beach fishing and swimming. we even saw a seal in the playing in the water!

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I caught a fish! But Remi was washing his hands in the fish bucket and the fish jumped out of thr bucket… Bounced on the rock and into the ocean! Luckiest fish alive!

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the next day was a mission to the Throne of the Gods … apparently supposed to be crack central however the swell was pretty high and every so often, a king wave would crash against the cliff creating spray higher than the wall …. we ended up spending the rest of the day in The Claw and jumped on a mixed 19 to warm up whilst Remi set up thr top rope for a Elegantly Wasted 25.

as we were chilling out, Brian spotted this diagonal crack which looked pretty rad so we gave it a go. It starts down on the bottom of a wall on the left as you scramble up from the Throne Room to the Claw. Horizontal hand crack for about 6m before vertical fingers to slab over the lip.

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Ice cream for 4play

On my first attempt… I pulled off a hold the size of a Labrador… Baby Labrador.. It ricocheted off my helmet… I hit the deck behind me and my right buttcheek landed on my #4 cam. It still hurts today. So up I went again… Got pumped out in the hand jam section. Tag … Brian’s turn. He cruised through it before blowing a hold in his right hand on the lip but managed to hang on anyway! Woo! “don’t do a Kevin Jorgeson on me” he says… pressure was on… Had to send… And send I did! It took a while but we named it “Ice cream for 4play” 19. Short but punchy the way I like it.

We also jumped on the Elegantly Wasted and man was that completely different. Technical face with crimps and tiny edges, balancey and sweet! First go I went too high for the traverse however managed to get the rest of it in one go. Second time I got the traverse but messed up the top. That’ll definitely be a scary lead!
Final day… Send day! Lance and Mark were set on Tombstone and Remi and myself were set on Epitaph. Remi got the onsight, Mark got the send, I got the send and Lance got the send! Brian got on Vintage and sent that too! So much sendage!.

Here’s a parting shot of Remi and Brian trying to tetris all our gear into the car




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Happy Valentines Day folks =)

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About peetiez

I'm 24 and from Melbourne. =D
This entry was posted in Climbing, Western Australia and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

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