Slopey Shoulders – Pt. 1

When you get injured and it’s bad. . . You know it straight away cause it’s this feeling that you’ve never felt before. I felt this on Sunday.

I finally got back into my routine with climbing and building up momentum and psych now that the weather is getting better. I went down south for a day trip with Woody to try this climb at Wilyabrup called Peaches. It’s graded 17M0 so figured that the start and the end will be no harder than 17, the hard bit is going to be the roof section that people used to aid. Surely I could do 2 or 3 hard boulder moves and push through?

I saw some photos that Logan put up of him on the roof section and it had a crack in it so I was super keen to suss it out. How naive was I. . .

When we got there and tried the roof, it kicked our ass. It was super hard and we couldn’t even make use of the cracks in the roof. The feet becomes non existent and you thought getting to the lip was hard, wait till you try pull over the lip! I managed to get all the way to the lip and launch for some non existent jug over the lip but just couldn’t see a sequence that I could conceive was possible. At the time, it was super demotivating but thinking back, I think we did so well and I’m psyched to go back and try again.

Last weekend Kate expressed her interest in getting on Turbo Crack at Llama Rock . I’ve tried it once before and was psyched to get back on it. We gave it a solid beta sussing before time ran out and the mozzies came in. We were psyched for another session and Sunday was the day.

After working the top sequence and nailing the gear beta, it was on! I gave it a lead attempt but stuffed up from get go which psyched me out for the rest of the climb. Had a rest and gave it another go and it was bliss.

I moved through the start with perfect foot placement, moving my TC Pros with razor blade precision, breathing all the way to the rest where I could place my first bit of gear, chalked up  and kept moving to the next stance to place the final bit of gear before the crux, I plugged the cam and slid it in place in the particular angle that I had previously rehearsed over and over again which just gave me enough room for my three fingers to jam into the flake, I take a deep breath and assess my fatigue in my head, with one deep breath I move my right foot on the side ways hold and step my left up to the smear, I engage my core and move my right foot to another side edge, I keep my core tense and really concentrate on pushing on the footer whilst reminding myself of how it slipped when I didn’t engage my core during the last attempt, I reach out with my right hand, squeeze hard, bring my body up and reach up to the left side pull, shift my body a little and reach up again and walk my fingers to the hold at full stretch, bump my right, bring my body up again and reach for the final crimp. I grab it and I’m thinking to myself that I’m one move from the send, excitement and anxiety take over and instead of bringing my feet up like I rehearsed, I lunge extending myself to the top jug and scramble my feet up to top out. I couldn’t even celebrate my send cause straight away, my left shoulder felt funny, a looseness that I’ve never felt before. I knew it was bad =(

I got home and hit the drugs but it was still so sore sleeping on it. I saw the physio the next day and the suspicion was that my shoulder is inflamed. He used words like bursitis, impingement and possible a small tear in the rotator cuff?

So here I am looking for a new hobby for the next few weeks until I can climb again. Maybe I’ll start with pilates to keep my core going and if I must, I might even go for a jog =)


About peetiez

I'm 24 and from Melbourne. =D
This entry was posted in Climbing, Injuries, Western Australia and tagged , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

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